1. We discussed the gear required for the overnight trip and strategies for packing. Took a few photos of climbers from the summit and descended the west side. Consider a personal locator beacon for emergencies. For example, the @mtnmia taught this cool cat about mixed climbing! This route was very highly praised in the Roach guidebook. This equals a fairly gradual gradient. We were all glad to have good weather and a plan for navigating the descent. "I'd climb the North Ridge every summer," he mentioned at one point. I like to carry a small summit pack with snacks, water, a rain jacket, small knife, and a first aid kit/locator beacon. Disclaimer: Conditions change quickly in the mountains. This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. The North Ridge is give or take nine pitches of sustained, but very moderate fifth class climbing directly to the summit of Spearhead. The climber's path heads around the left side of the lake. Standing at 10,781 feet, Mount Baker is the third highest peak in the State of Washington. The North Ridge of Spearhead is an easy, high quality, fun route, in the beautiful setting of Glacier Gorge in Rocky Mountain National Park. Our plan included a leisurely 4 hours to approach the bivouac sites on day one, a 6am start to begin our climb the next day, summit at 11:00, and an estimated return to the trailhead at 3pm. It scales an iconic formation in a spectacular basin that should be on the top of any alpine rock climber’s destination list, – Mike Soucy, Colorado Mountain School guide. There are several climbs in RMNP that I have had my eye on and The North Ridge on Spearhead was one that a friend of mine, Greg Dooley, also happened to be interested in. The inclusion of the Spearhead's north ridge represents a typical elitist upping of the ante, wherein the elite climber at least doubles either the difficulty or number of pitches of proposed technical climbing. Climbed 8/03 Spearhead Behind The Clouds Be prepared with details such as your climb and descent route, vehicle’s license plate number, as well as rope and helmet colors. We were lucky to have beautiful clear weather with little chance of thunderstorms. Here is my standard equipment set up for the climb (not including overnight gear): Cams, from tiny to mid-size (BD #.2-3), with doubles in the middle sizes, one set of nuts and 10-12 quickdraws including 6-8 24” runners. I guided a two-day ascent of this climb on July 17-18 via the classic and moderate North Ridge route (III, 5.6). This is a great climb for those who are getting introduced to more technical alpine climbing and want to climb one the most classic routes in the park. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. Round trip from Glacier Gorge Parking. Spending an entire day on the Spearhead could lead to an unpleasant encounter with the common afternoon thunder/lightning storm. with rubber butt plate. See my account below leading up to and during the adventure. Climb over Decker mountain. A beautiful, white northeast-facing wall which starts as a slab and steadily rises to vertical, Spearhead is surrounded and dwarfed by taller mountains in the center of the Glacier Gorge Cirque-- one of the most beautiful spots on earth. Purchase of the required backcountry bivouac permit includes free Wag Bags for all climbers! Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. The Spearhead is one of the premier alpine rock climbing destinations in RMNP. Most parties, including ours, begin on Blackcomb Mountain and end on Whistler Mountain. Get Started at These 5 Denver-Area Crags, Analysis of a Historic Avalanche Cycle: The Spring of 2019, Backcountry Skiing & Splitboarding Courses. This climb has no fixed anchors and requires solid and efficient multi-pitch climbing skills. The approach to the west ridge of the North Twin Sister is 6+ miles of logging roads one way (most people bring a bike, I brought running shoes), and along with the climb, this was a great training day! The Diamond, Long's Peak. You can go right over the top to the Trorey-Decker col, or drop down a steep slope from the east ridge of Decker to a lower part of the Trorey Glacier. Many will want a rope for belaying short sections of exposed 4th class on the East Side descent. Mike is also a member of the AMGA Instructor Team. The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. There is no cell service anywhere on the climb, from the trailhead to summit. A full completion of the loop would have to wait another day. Adam leading towards to summit ridge. Video . Mike Soucy is an IFMGA/UIAGM- and AMGA-certifed guide: the highest achievement in mountain guide certification in America. First around 3 days before and again within 12 hours of departure. Trail: The North Ridge, Class 5.6, ~11 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain. Shouldn't need more than this. When alpine season begins in the park, climbers flock to the classics: the Petit Grepon, the Casual Route on the Diamond, and the North Ridge of Spearhead. Climb North Ridge rated 5.6 with a few variances and the last pitch is an exposed hand/finger crack. South Face, Petit Grepon. There are several intersections to navigate, but overall it is quite easy to follow. Slings/cord for building your own belay anchors. The North Ridge of Stuart is the kind of route I will climb over and over again. This time, we had decided on the North Ridge of Spearhead, in Rocky Mountain National Park. Happy hour ends at 5pm, so plan accordingly! Refer to p168 of Rossiter’s RMNP guidebook for details. I’d recommend the West Side descent, which involves class 2-3 scrambling on talus and ledges and requires a good nose for route finding. Gym Climbing to Real Rock, or, Why You Need to Go Outside Now, First Descents Climbing Camps: Moab May 2011, Classic Alpine Rock: The Cathedral Spires, Fitness For A Cause: Boulderites Mix Athleticism With Volunteerism, New to Outdoor Sport Climbing? The route follows a narrow face up a sweep of granite as it steepens into the sky. 5.7 variaiton around the "piano death block". Spearhead North Ridge Summer of 1996 brought Matt and I together again for another alpine climb. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. Prepare yourself for the adventure of a lifetime. Report. Colorado Mountain School guide Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in Rocky Mountain National Park on July 18th, 2019. After choosing the objective, we decided to make a two-day ascent to take advantage of the scenic bivouac opportunities in upper Glacier Gorge, located just minutes from the base of the climbing. Most routes are on the face directly above the meadow, and the North Ridge is around the corner to the right. Follow his adventures on Instagram: @mnsoucy. The team on the summit since we have more than one for sale you will not receive the one on the pictures but a similar or better one. We found the approach, climb, and descent in excellent and dry condition. Lumpy Ridge - Mainliner, Sundance Buttress & Pear Buttress, The Book. (720) 387-8944. The scenery grows more dramatic as you climb from Mills to Black Lake, where you’ll catch your first views into upper Glacier Gorge. Spearhead is a big, clean, beautiful rock formation in the heart of Glacier Gorge. Plan on 4-6 hours for your ascent. Mike Soucy climbed Spearhead with clients in, For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! This will take a solid 3 hours for most parties moving at a moderate and consistent hiking pace. start from the trailhead and lots of hiking time. After flying from Houston, TX we drive to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado and hiked the six miles to the base of the spearhead. I was psyched to have my, at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by, reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides, In the market for a new pair of skis? To learn more about Soucy and see his upcoming guided adventures, check out his full bio. Homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK have a median listing price of $54,687. The most efficient descent from the North Ridge is to the west. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … Homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC have a median listing price of $469,450. The best burger and beer on the way out of Estes is at Bird and Jim. info@coloradomountainschool.com There are 3021 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Tulsa, OK. View North Ridge Image Gallery - 53 Images. Expect clean, sharp flakes and cracks, as well as some brilliant face climbing on the harder routes. © 2020 Colorado Mountain School, All rights reserved. The Keyhole, Long's Peak . North Ridge, Spearhead, III, 5.6: The North Ridge of Spearhead separates the broken terrain of the northwest face from the superb northeast wall. Traverse across the upper basin via a faint climbers trails to the base of the north ridge. Photos courtesy of David Russell. There are 18 active homes for sale in North Ridge, Raleigh, NC. This is the man for the job. Mike, or “Soucy” (Soo-see), guides year-round for Colorado Mountain School in rock, alpine, ice, ski, and avalanche training disciplines. Spearhead, North Ridge (Alpine 5.6) Price: 1 person – $599 / 2 people – $999. The North Ridge however is only an 'ok' route. Traverse around the North side of Mt. 3. Each pitch has options for good protection and solid belay anchors. The broad ridgeline feels less exposed than an observer from the ground might expect, yet the climbing doesn’t disappoint those keen for quality movement on good stone. McHenry's looms over Black Lake. Spearhead’s North Ridge requires a 6-mile approach, gaining 2,000’ of elevation from the Glacier Gorge trailhead. Tackle a park classic without queueing up at the base. From top of Showcase T-bar on Blackcomb, cross Blackcomb Glacier to the Blackcomb-Spearhead col 2. Current conditions require minimal snow travel. Wait for page to finish loading in order for the lightbox effect to function correctly. High quality furniture brand. Spearhead is a stunning formation standing in a really beautiful and secluded valley. The climb is 8 pitches long on solid granite, with mostly 5.4-5.5 climbing and two pitches of 5.6. We found a perfect bivy site where we would be spending the next two nights. The climbing gets cleaner and more exposed in the second half but none of the climbing is that remarkable. The Spearhead Trip Report. The Baker North Ridge is one of top 5 classic ice routes in the lower 48 states and one of the 50 classic climbs of North America. The first few pitches ascend some ugly and sort of dirty gullies. The climbing is clean and consistent with an … The style of climbing is mostly moderate cracks and slabs; many describe it as a “granite Flatiron”. (11), Comments My friend Jon Pobst was an eager partner. For us, we reached the summit at 11am and the top was windy! We were nearly spot-on in our time plans. North Buttress (5.7, 6 pitches) Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. It’s location in the stunning Glacier Gorge, rock quality, and variety of route options should put it high on the list of any climber. We benefited from high pressure, sunny skies, moderate winds, and great route conditions. Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children. It features … Coming up the 5.5 chimney at the end of P1. Pass Mills Lake, Black Lake and up east drainage weaving the best path the North Ridge of the Spearhead. Unfortunately, after scrambling the North Ridge of Spearhead (right skyline here), and traversing to the saddle between it and Chiefshead, my right knee forced an early exit back to the car via the Glacier Gorge trail. Solo_N_ridge_Spearhead_3_24 (1).gpx 528.85 KB. Exceptional craftsmanship from our home to yours. After arriving in “Spearhead Basin”, locate The Spearhead’s north ridge. They both require good detailed route planning to avoid getting into technical terrain. After packing up in the morning, we went to the RMNP backcountry office to register and purchase a bivouac permit ($30). The North Ridge is 8 pitches long on generally solid granite cracks and slabs. Comfortable approach shoes and trekking poles are recommended for this hike. So by Summer 2016, I was definitely feeling past due on another lap up the route. The Spearhead - North Ridge July 30, 2006: Photos . There is an inherent risk of being in the mountains and this climb is no exception. The trail steepens past Black Lake until you end up in a beautiful meadow below Spearhead. The wind was moderate with gusts (~20mph) and required us to use non-verbal communication strategies between climber and belayer. I picked up Jerry Sanchez and Bo Lalovic at 6:00am. He had climbed the route four or five times and was happy to climb it again. Used fire trail up to Mills/Loch Junction. So, I decided to do both! Nice bivy spots 5 minutes from the start of the route. The Glacier Gorge trail gains 1,600’ in 5 miles en route to Black Lake. The Spearhead Traverse is a classic. This is the undefined ridge that separates the vast, unbroken northeast face from the more broken northwest face. My clients were elated and exhausted! Proper skills, experience, and decision-making are a must. “Day 3 ice. North Ridge, Spearhead. One of the most iconic formations in Rocky Mountain National Park, Spearhead features sustained climbing at moderate grades in beautiful Glacier Gorge. Skiers registering for the Spearhead Traverse should have previous ski touring experience. Our Avalanc, @andyhansenmountainguide Showed @climbstuf the col, Climbing to the top of the year. (1). The north ridge of the Spearhead is considered by many to be the best climb of its grade in Rocky Mountain National Park and possibly in the country. Spiral Route, Notchtop. Colorado Mountain School is an equal opportunity provider and is operated under special use permit with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest. We finished our hike to the base of Spearhead in 3 hours and 50 minutes. Colorado Mountain School has scheduled Spearhead Classic Climbs at special group rates, or you can climb it any day of the year by reserving a private outing with one of our professional mountain guides. At 3PM we reached the base of the summit block but decided that the time and exposure required to rope up and climb onto the block was an unnecessary risk; we took pictures instead. • Jeff and I quickly dug out our climbing gear, had a quick bite to eat, and headed for the north ridge of Spearhead. The North Ridge of Spearhead is a perfect intro to alpine rock climbing for the experienced multi-pitch climber with good physical fitness. No spiked equipment needed. From Black Lake, an unimproved trail climbs steeply east to the upper bench of the gorge, where you’ll follow cairns along the glacial moraine to the bivouac sites. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. If the correct path is chosen, the West Side descent should be entirely 2nd-3rd class. One of the required backcountry bivouac permit includes free Wag Bags for all climbers guide certification America... 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